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When Surrealist artist Salvador Dalí first put a lobster on a dress, he wanted to be provocative. It worked. His 1937 collaboration with boundary pushing fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli caused consternation.
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It’s hard in the present day to imagine a lobster on a dress being such a big deal. It’s the kind of print you could easily find now, adorning everything from loafers to smocks. Henrik Vibskov’s Spring-Summer 2020 collection featured plenty of pink and red crustaceans, for example, and Louis Vuitton’s Autumn-Winter 2020 menswear show saw models stride down the catwalk wearing white fluffy coats decorated with oversized, similarly plush lobsters.
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uninhibited writing and artwork) and juxtapositions of unlikely images Surrealism aimed to release the unconscious mind and, in doing so, set loose the imagination. It was deeply influenced by Freud’s writing about hidden desires and feelings, as well as other psychological and political thinkers including Karl Marx.
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which featured seashore detritus including a lobster’s tail and a fishing net. This back and forth traffic between art and fashion manifested in other ways too. Photographers including Man Ray and Lee Miller brought a Surrealist eye to their fashion photography, while figures such
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More recently, designers have demonstrated a renewed kinship to the art movement. Last year several labels cited Surrealist creators as major reference points. Simone Rocha’s Autumn-Winter 2019 show drew on Louise Bourgeois’ fearless approach to the female body
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r, too, has repeatedly rummaged through Surrealist history, with head designer Maria Grazia Chiuri name-checking artists and photographers including Leonor Fini, Leonora Carrington, and Dora Maar in recent seasons.
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